Leave it to Mario Carbone and Major Food Group to revamp one of Manhattan’s most extravagant dining theaters. The Grill rose like a phoenix from its ashes back in 2018, and now, after a year-long closure, it’s back, and the originator of power lunches has never looked better. Pasta à la presse is tossed tableside, dover sole is wheeled out and filleted before your eyes, and baked Alaska arrives in a fiery tangle of blue flames.