You go to Indochine for the crowd first. This is one of New York’s original see-or-be-seen spots after all, where Warhol and his gang were regulars. These days, Indochine remains a favorite among the fashion elite. But amid the wallpapered fronds and dimmed lights, there is also the Indochine martini, the fried spring rolls, and the spicy shrimp, all still benchmarks more than three decades later.