When Major Food Group (Carbone, The Grill, Sadelle’s) opened this French bistro, it took the classic concept and gave it a decidedly New York accent, with an attitude to boot. The neon pink sign glowing outside the Ludlow Hotel is hard to miss, and it certainly sets the tone. As for the food, don’t sleep on the millefeuille with king oyster mushrooms, or the duck à l’orange with ras el hanout and preserved oranges. And don’t forget to peruse the extensive wine list, which has plenty of old Bordeaux.