From slinging schmaltz herring out of a barrel to launching a celebrated brick-and-mortar store on Houston, Joel Russ made history not only by cementing Jewish food into the canon of New York dining, but by making his three daughters, Hattie, Ida, and Anne, full partners in the 1930’s of this still-family-owned operation. And it’s been one of the most fulfilling places for a proper New York brunch ever since.