What happens when a fine dining chef opens a more casual spot? Hopefully for them, it’s something like ATLA. Enrique Olvera’s take on the all-day genre is riveting, from the breakfast bites and light-drenched space to the mezcal selection. Plus, as Cosme’s little sister, ATLA similarly wows in the simplest of ways (see the cheese quesadilla). Pro tip: When the chilaquiles are on the menu, run, don’t walk.