Because chef Jenny Kwak has been making New Yorkers fall in love with Korean food for a quarter-century, starting with her groundbreaking Dok Suni. Haenyeo's menu leans toward the restaurant's seafood-inspired origins — as with her Korean-styled bouillabaisse. But her takes on kalbi, soondubu jigae (soft tofu soup), and of course the now famous rice-cake fundido, make Haenyeo one of the most dynamic destinations in a city full of outstanding Korean cooking.