If you trace the origins of the Vongerichten empire, it all leads back to JoJo. JGV’s first restaurant (and his mother’s pet name for him), JoJo rocked the dining scene with its accessible French fare in 1991, reopened with a fresh glossy look, and is still the place for any and all Jean-Georges hits — like the Peekytoe crab dumplings, which, if on the menu, are required eating.