Dressed up in bricked-up walls and dim lighting, this two-decades-old Nolita stalwart now helmed by Marc Forgione keeps things anchored in rural Italy, where most of the menu gets a lick from the wood-fired oven. And the food is stupendous, whether you’re tucking into Peasant’s signature whole suckling pig dinner — was that a pig’s head that just passed you by? — or a simple, stunning plate of charred octopus.