You can’t keep a good diner down. This Chelsea favorite, originally opened in 1946, has been through closings and reopenings, name changes, and an assortment of chefs and proprietors. Today, it’s stronger than ever with Jestin Feggan (formerly of Cafeteria) in charge of the kitchen, serving diner classics along with up-to-the-minute fare like melon gazpacho with lump crabmeat and and cacio e pepe risotto.