In a city known for its pizzerias, Kesté stands out. Chef-proprietor Roberto Caporuscio studied pizza-making in Naples, opened his first Kesté (the name is Neapolitan dialect for “this is it”) in Manhattan in 2009, and is U.S. president of Italy’s Pizza Academy Foundation — which makes sure that pizza is made right around the world. All his pies (which include gluten-free options) are superlative, but don’t miss the signature montanara pizzas, made with dough that’s lightly fried.