In the Ninth Avenue stretch of excellent Thai restaurants dotting Hell’s Kitchen, LumLum brilliantly stands out. Perhaps it’s because sisters (and owners) Sommy and Mo Hensawang grew up watching the matriarchs in their family run a cherished seafood restaurant back in their hometown in central Thailand. Regardless, they’ve brought over some of those recipes and hard-to-source ingredients here, within a fun beachy setting (Beach Boys playlist included), and you’re not going to want to miss the tiger prawns or the squid ink soup.