Salil Mehta, the chef and restaurateur behind some of the city’s most celebrated Southeast Asian restaurants (Laut, Laut Singapura, Singlish, and Wau) turns his focus to his hometown of New Delhi, and to street food at this Upper West Side gem with its own tandoor clay oven. Don’t sleep on the dori kebab, the rogan josh made with steak, or the Malabar bone marrow pulau.