While the city may be getting its share of excellent regional Chinese cuisine, New York’s never forgotten its first love: Chinese American cuisine, which gets its delicious due at this sleek red-paper-lantern- and gold-accented spot where canons of the genre — walnut shrimp, sweet-and-sour pork, kung pao chicken — are executed to the nines. Bonus: Expect to take home leftovers; the portions are something else.