For more than 20 years, Gino Angelini’s osteria has been a mainstay on Beverly Boulevard, and there’s still rarely a night that it isn’t hopping. Reaching almost iconic status, you can taste the generations of family love in some of the recipes, from the soul-warming lasagna verde — perfectly layered spinach pasta with beef and veal ragu and creamy béchamel — to the veal chop alla Milanese. It takes artful jockeying for the best seat in the small, bustling room.