The narrow, minimalist space belies the bright, aromatic, and flavor-packed dishes that come out of this kitchen. This is Thai food with a Michelin nod, after all, where the menu ranges from sweet scallops with shredded lemongrass and chili jam to beef cheek curry, spicy papaya salad with fried quail, and inky squid stir-fry. A glass or two of skin-contact wine, some mango sorbet and sticky rice, and you’re set.